This page is to help you understand the process of refinishing your existing hardwood floors.
On average, wood floors need to be refinished every 10 years. Obviously this varies from home to home. The biggest factors that affect the life of a wood floor finish is how clean and dry they are kept and if you have pets. Sand and grit can ruin a finish quickly, so sweeping, swiffering or vacuuming routinely is very helpful. As well, water can damage a floor quickly. Areas by dishwashers, sinks, toilets and pets dishes will absorb the water at the seams, swelling the wood and breaking down the adhesion of the finish. As for pets, large dogs with nails can wreak havoc on floors. Their nails will leave dents or scratch marks, removing the finish down to the raw wood. Urine stains are also a big problem.
So what do you do when the floor looks bad? There are basically two options to choose from. One is the buff-n-coat process, the other is to sand off the old finish and refinish the floor.
BUFF-N-COAT:
In this process, the floor is cleaned, scuffed with a fine abrasive pad and a new coat of finish is applied. If the floor is not damaged to bad, this can make the floor look fresher and add more life to the durability of the floor. This is also the least expensive and quicker process. Cost are usually around $1 a square foot.
However, there are a few problems with the Buff-N-Coat process. This process will NOT remove any dents, deeper scratches or worn through areas. There also may be adhesion problems with the new finish, which will lead to pealing or flaking in time. Overall, this process should be seen as maintenance on the floor verses a quick-fix solution.
REFINISHING:
In this process, the floors is sanded down to the raw wood, which doesn’t remove much of the wood itself. Then the floors can be stained to a desired color, or it can be sealed in its natural state and coated with a few coats of polyurethane. If there are gaps in the floors, they can be filled with a putty which makes it look new again. Usually, light stains will come out along with scratches and small dents. Holes from cable wires can be corked and sanded flush and holes from old vents etc, can be patched before sanding. Once sanded, there are several choices in the finish to use which will determine the final appearance of the floor.
FINISH CHOICES: The following is a list of options for finishing and their outcomes.
Staining. Staining is used to darken or change the color of the wood. There are several colors to pick from, mostly browns which can vary from light to dark and red hues to green hues. I have customers start the process by looking through magazines and website images for something they like. Then, there are fan cards to thumb through and hold up to existing cabinets and trim. Once the choices are narrowed down to about three, I then do test swatches on the existing floor so that you can see what it will really look like in you home. Staining will cost more per square foot because of the additional labor to apply the stain and prep the floor to take the stain evenly. I will only use an oil-based finish over a stain for two reason. Water- finished do not adhere well to an oil-based stain and water-based finish on top of stain will look very faded in a short time. Oil finishes make the stain look deep and rich for years to come.
Sealers: Sealers are used for a few reasons. One is to fill and seal the pores of the wood so the finish bonds and lays out smoother across the wood. Two, it can be used to enhance the color or keep it softer in color. If you are staining, the stain itself acts as a sealer. Each manufacture of floor finishes will have a few types of sealer to choose from for varied purposes. I tend to use three types to meet the customers desired outcome. Shellac is an age old finish made from beetles and dissolved in alcohol. I like to use shellac to bring out the beauty of the wood. It leaves a rich, almost iridescent glow. It sticks to anything and any finish stick to it. Other sealers have a lighter color enhancer. They will warm the wood tone less than shellac. Then there are clear sealers that leave the wood almost like there was no finish applied, they will only slightly darken the raw wood. Clear sealer is typically used for a contemporary look. Every sealer will then need to be coated with at least two coats of a polyurethane, which also has several choices.
Polyurethane: There are two types of polyurethane; oil and water-based, and there are several sheens, from matte to glossy. Oil-based polyurethanes have been around for decades and some finishers swear by them. I myself have yet to have a problem with them a well. The major drawback is that they leave the floor more yellow/orange than some prefer. They also take longer to dry, about six hours to touch and a few weeks to fully cured. Oils also leave a stronger odor for a few days. Water-based finishes have improved a lot in the last twenty years. They, for the most part, stay clear, some better than others. They dry to touch in a few hours and fully cure in days with very little odor. Water-based polyurethanes will leave the floor washed out looking after a while especially in the direct sun. They are best over a clear sealer for a natural look.
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